I made another Destiny 2-inspired design, and I’m ready to share it! If you’d like a PDF version of this pattern, one is available for free from my Ko-fi. Feel free to reach out (here, Discord (@sems), or bluesky) and I’ll gladly help you and adjust the pattern for clarity if needed!
Materials
For the black shank, I used Premier Parfait in black and tan with a 4.5mm hook. It was fine, but I’ve found myself moving more towards Michael’s or Big Twist’s Posh, also with a 4.5mm hook. (If you go the Premier Parfait route, I do have an affiliate link in the menu above that I get commission for, if you’re interested). I started another shank with Bernat Blanket, and for that one I’m using a 6mm hook.
- Yarn for the main body color
- Yarn for the faceplate (I used tans and whites)
- A short length of yarn for the eyes – I liked brighter greens or blues, but a red could make evil-looking eyes
- Stitch markers
- Yarn Needle
- Scissors
- Stuffing – I used polyfil
Optional Materials
- Orange/yellow yarn for bombs
- Acrylic yarn for optional duskfield pattern (this will need to be something that can be brushed out into fibers)
- Wire brush for duskfield option
Pattern
The Body
Row 1: 8 sc into a MR. Sl st to the first sc to join (8)
Row 2: Ch 1. This does not count as a stitch in this or the following rounds for the body. 1 sc into the same stitch. Sc3 in next stitch. [1 sc, Sc3 in next stitch] x3. Sl st with first sc to join (16)
Row 3: Ch 1. Sc into the same stitch. 1 sc, Sc3 in next stitch. [3 sc, Sc3 in next stitch] x3. 1 sc. Sl st with first sc to join (24)
Row 4: Ch 1. Sc into the same stitch. 2 sc, Sc3 in next stitch. [5 sc, Sc3 in next stitch] x3. 2 sc Sl st with first sc to join (32)
Row 5: Ch 1. Sc into the same stitch. 3 sc, Sc3 in next stitch. [7 sc, Sc3 in next stitch] x3. 3 sc. Sl st with first sc to join (40)
Row 6: Ch 1. Sc into the same stitch. 4 sc, Sc3 in next stitch. [9 sc, Sc3 in next stitch] x3. 4 sc. Sl st with first sc to join (48)
Row 7-11: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch, and sc around (48 total stitches). Sl st to first sc to join.
Row 12: Ch 1. Sc into the same stitch. 4 sc, sc3tog. [sc 9, sc3tog] x3. 4 sc, sl st to join (40)
Row 13: Ch 1. Sc into the same stitch. 3 sc, sc3tog. [7 sc, sc3tog] x3. 3 sc, sl st to join (32)
Row 14: Ch 1. Sc into the same stitch. 2 sc, sc3tog. [sc 5, sc3tog] x3. 2 sc, sl st to join (24)
Row 15: Ch 1. Sc into the same stitch. 1 sc, sc3tog. [sc 3, sc3tog] x3. 1 sc, sl st to join (16)
Stuff firmly.
Row 16: Ch 1. Sc into the same stitch. Sc3tog. [1 sc , sc3tog] x3. Sl st to join (8)
Cut a long tail and use it to cinch the hole closed. Weave in the end.
Turbines (make 2)
Worked in the round, top to bottom.
Row 1: 8 sc into a MR (8)
Row 2: inc around (16)
Row 3: [1 sc, inc] around (24)
Row 4: [1 sc, inc, 1 sc] around (32)
Row 5: [3 sc, inc] around (40)
Row 6: [3 sc, dec] around (32)
Row 7: [1 sc, dec, 1 sc] around (24)
Row 8: [1 sc, dec, 1 sc] around (18)
Row 9: [1 sc, dec] around (12)
Stuff firmly.
Row 10: dec around (6)
Cut a long tail and use it to cinch the hole closed. Leave a long tail for assembly.
Faceplate
Row 1: Chain 10. Turn and sc into the second chain from hook. Sc until the end of the chain. Chain 1 and turn. (9)
Row 2-4: 9 sc across.
Cut a long tail for assembly.
Stabilizers (make 2)
Row 1: Chain 3. Turn and sc in second ch from hook. 1 sc.
Row 2-8: Ch 1 and turn. 2 sc.
Cut a long tail for assembly.
Assembly
I start by attaching the turbines to the body. I left a long tail for each turbine that I pulled out the side of the turbine so I could attach it.
Pull the long tail from the turbine through the side of the turbine, between rows 5 and 6. Insert the needle between rows 7 and 8 on either back corner of the body. Attach the turbine to the body by weaving yarn back and forth through the body and the turbine, and once it is in a firm position, you can weave in the yarn end and repeat on the other back corner.
To attach the stabilizers, put your needle in between rows 11 and 12 of the body, along the diagonal formed by the sc3tog decreases and below the turbine.
Go back and forth through the body and the short end of the stabilizer and attach it along the diagonal. Once you have attached the short end of the stabilizer, you can weave in your end and repeat under the other turbine.
The final step for the base shank is to add on the face plate. Using the long tail from the faceplate, center your faceplate against the front of the body, and insert your hook into one of the corners. Weave the yarn through the faceplate and the body. Try to stretch out the faceplate as you go to have a more uniform width and don’t let it bunch up in areas.
One the faceplate is attached, use a short length of yarn to stitch eyes into the face plate. When I do the eyes, I insert my hook in the bottom of the body and exit through the faceplate. I loosely wrap my needle and yarn around one stitch three times, and on the third pass I exit through a different part of the faceplate to start the second eye. Once I have all three eyes completed, I insert the needle back into the body and exit through the same stitch that I started in pre-embroidery. I knot the beginning of the yarn with the end of the yarn, then I use a hook or needle to push the knot and extra yarn back into the body.
Duskfield Shank Variant
Worsted acrylic yarn in the color you want for the ice spikes/hair/mohawk
Crochet hook
Wire brush (I used a clean cat brush)
Cut the yarn into 13″ lengths and fold in half. Use the crochet hook to pull the folded end through the top of the body, and tuck the loose ends through the loop formed (I did a 5×5 grid).
Once all the yarn has been attached, use a wire brush on the yarn ends (be careful to avoid the body of the shank!), and brush the yarn until it’s fluffy. You can cut the fluffy yarn again to size, or you can leave as-is.
Exploder Shank Variant
Yelllow or Orange yarn (can be the same you used for the base body)
4.5mm hook
Make Bombs (x3)
Row 1: 8 sc into a MR (8)
Row 2: Increase (inc) around (16)
Row 3: [1 sc, inc] around (24)
Row 4: sc around (24)
Row 5: [1 sc, dec] around (16)
Row 6: dec around (8)
Stuff firmly.
Use a long tail to cinch the opening closed. Weave in the end, but leave about 6 inches for attaching to the other bombs and the shank.
Once you have 3 bombs made, you can stitch them directly to the bottom of the shank. I stitched them together in a circle then attached them to the body as one group.
